Models weigh AI “twins” as Vogue ad stirs debate

Studio monitor displays a photorealistic digital model on screen amid empty studio equipment and folded garments

Fashion models are reassessing their careers as brands test artificial intelligence-generated models and digital “twins,” a shift thrust into the spotlight by a recent Guess ad in Vogue featuring an AI-created model. According to the Los Angeles Times, enthusiasm for the technology is colliding with concerns about job displacement, compensation, and consent.

Digital clones gain traction among models and brands

Los Angeles model Hannah James partnered with Beverly Hills startup Kartel.ai to create a licensed digital replica for ad campaigns. She described the results as both “beautiful” and “scary,” reflecting hopes of new income streams alongside worries about being replaced. Kartel.ai co-founder Ben Kusin said AI and digital clones could reduce costs tied to travel, hair, and makeup, while allowing models to be paid and choose how their likeness is used.

Brands are experimenting broadly. In Vogue’s August issue, Guess ran an ad with a curvy blond AI model in a light blue floral romper. H&M showcased digital “twins” of some of its models in July. The Times noted both attention for innovation and criticism over implications for employment and beauty standards. H&M declined to comment, and Guess did not respond to requests for comment.

Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance, said synthetic models threaten jobs and real people are being digitized “often without clear standards for consent or compensation.” Many models, typically independent contractors, already contend with late payments, debt, and harassment, she added.

Industry response spans caution and opportunity

Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea-Laura Petrescu of AI marketing agency Seraphinne Vallora, which worked with Guess, said they aim to supplement rather than replace modeling. Their firm created new AI models reflecting the brand’s aesthetic and also offers services to clone real models, with some videos drawing more than a million views.

Kusin said he draws the line at creating models who don’t exist in real life, in contrast to Guess’s AI-only ad. Past efforts have drawn scrutiny: in 2023, Levi’s faced criticism after partnering with Lalaland.ai on AI models purported to offer varied skin tones and body types.

Boutique agencies such as Otto Models worry human talent will struggle to compete with virtual people. Co-founder Tereza Otto said replacing models would not bode well for the business, emphasizing the “human purity” of live campaigns. James also underscored the irreplaceable “vibe on set,” suggesting in-person shoots will endure even as digital clones proliferate.

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